Resources & Tips

Below you will find some (hopefully!) helpful information to improve your sewing skills and knowledge. This page will be slowing expanding as we get suggestions from you for what you would like to see here! Email us at info@biasbespoke.com with suggestions.

 

BIAS BESPOKE HYMO CANVAS COMPARISON CHART

Bias Bespoke's hymo canvases in order of weight, from heaviest to lightest. It's generally wise to choose a canvas whose weight is about the same as the weight of your fabric. (For more thoughts on matching hymo to garment fabric, see the Tailoring section in our Sewing FAQs page.)

HEAVY WEIGHT
Cleo (Super Premium, Wide Goods)
Torino (Super Premium Linen Wool, Wide Goods)

MEDIUM HEAVY WEIGHT
Savile (Super Premium)
TC-110 (Light-Colored)

MEDIUM WEIGHT
Remo (Super Premium)
Giove (Super Premium)
Delfino (Premium, Wide Goods)
Panna (Premium, Light-Colored, Wide Goods)
TC-200 (Wide Goods)
Alda (Premium Linen)

MEDIUM LIGHT WEIGHT
Stella (Premium, Wide Goods)
Rosalba (Premium, Wide Goods)
Cera (Premium, Light-Colored, Wide Goods)
TC-212 (Wide Goods)

LIGHT WEIGHT
Valentin (Premium, Wide Goods)
Margherite (Premium, Light-Colored)
Anselmo (Premium Linen)


INSTRUCTIONS FOR SET-IN TROUSER HOOKS 

It's easy to put set-in hooks into fabric with just a pair of pliers. Set-in hooks are best used where there is more than one layer of fabric, like in a waistband, so that the "wrong" side of the hooks always lives between layers of fabric. 

1. Mark your fabric where you want the prongs of the hook and bar to push through the fabric. 
2. Hold the top overlap of your fabric and push the 4 prongs of the hook from the innermost layer of fabric to the center of the fabric layers so that the prongs end up between the layers of fabric. (If there are two layers, push the prongs through one of them.)
3. Place the square silver backing piece between the layers of fabric and just inside the prongs. Using a small pair of pliers, wrap the prongs around the metal so that the hook is held in place not just by fabric, but also by metal. 
4. Hold the underlap of your fabric and push the 2 prongs of the bar side from the outer layer of fabric through to the center.
5. Place the narrow backing piece between the layers of fabric so that the prongs insert through the holes.Using a small pair of pliers, wrap the prongs around the metal so that the hook is held in place not just by fabric, but also by metal. 

If you don't get the placement just right the first time, unfold the prongs and set again!



INSTRUCTIONS FOR INVISIBLE SEPARATING ZIPPERS

We sell invisible separating zippers in two lengths: 18" and 22".

1. Completely separate the zipper so that you have two unconnected parts. Sew the side without the slider and box, staying about 1mm width away from the teeth, especially near the bottom. (If you're too close to the teeth at the bottom, it will be very hard to open the zipper.)
2. On the other side of the zipper, move the slider and box upward to around the middle of the zipper. Sew about half of the zipper, and then lift the sewing foot up and move the slider and box back down into the part of the zipper already sewn. Continue stitching all the way to the end.
3. Put the pin into the slider and box and join the zipper and check your work. It is done!